Kenmore 417 series digital display model front-load washer error codes
These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your 417 model Kenmore front-load washer with a digital display built in 2014 and later. For repair how-to help, visit the PartsDirect repair help section, which includes repair help for washing machines, other major appliances, lawn and garden equipment, garage door openers, vacuum cleaners and more. Search for your model number to find a complete list of replacement parts for your washer.
Fill time too long
Make sure that the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open. Check for frozen fill lines in the winter. Unplug the washer and disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer. Check for proper water flow through the fill hoses. If water flow is inadequate, have a plumber repair the water supply to the faucets. If water flows okay, check the inlet screens on the water inlet valve assembly. If the screens are clogged, replace the water inlet valve assembly rather than cleaning the screens (cleaning could allow debris to enter the valves, resulting in the valves sticking open and causing flooding). Check the drain hose for proper installation. An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. Also, check the drain pump for debris because items such as paper clips and coins can prevent the washer from draining properly and allow fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. If these suggestions don't solve the problem, the inlet water valve assembly probably needs to be replaced.
Water leak in the tub or air leak in the water level pressure sensor air hose
Drain the water out of the washer. Unplug the washer and check the outer tub for cracks or leaks such as water dripping from the bottom of the washer tub or a hose. Replace the tub if leaking. If you find no water leaks, check the water level pressure sensor air hose for air leaks. Replace the air hose if it leaks. If the hose doesn't leak, replace the water level pressure sensor because it's not detecting the water level in the washer.
Drains slowly
Check your house's washer drain and the washer's drain hose for clogs and clear any clogs found. Unplug the washer and check the drain pump for a clog. If the drain path is clear, the drain pump usually needs replacing.
Water level pressure sensor isn't communicating with the electronic control board
Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the water level pressure sensor and the control board. If the wiring connections are sound, you'll usually need to replace the water level pressure sensor.
Water level pressure sensor detects overfill
If the washer overfilled, unplug the power cord and see if water continues to fill the tub. If so, replace the water inlet valve assembly because a water valve isn't closing. If the washer didn't overfill, the water level pressure sensor usually needs replacing.
Clogged air trap
Unplug the washer and check the air trap and the water level pressure switch air hose for clogs. Clear any clogs. If the air trap and air hose are clear, the water level pressure sensor usually needs replacing because it's not detecting the change in air pressure as the tub fills.
Control detects the door open
Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections between the door lock assembly and the electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, the door lock assembly usually needs replacing.
Control detects a problem with the door lock circuit
Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections between the door lock assembly and the electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, the door lock assembly usually needs replacing. If you replace the door lock assembly and the problem continues, replace the electronic control board.
Control detects an open door lock circuit in spin mode
Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections between the door lock assembly and the electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, the door lock assembly usually needs replacing.
Bad signal from the drive motor tachometer
Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the drive motor and the motor control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. Check the resistance through the tachometer on the drive motor using a multimeter. If you don't measure between 105 and 130 ohms, the tachometer is defective and you'll need to replace the drive motor. The tachometer is built into the drive motor and can't be replaced separately. If tachometer resistance is okay, replace the motor control board.
Low voltage to the motor control board
Unplug the washer and check the wire harness between the electronic control board and motor control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the harness if damaged. If the wire harness is okay, the electronic control board usually needs replacing.
Drive motor over speed
Unplug the washer and check the resistance through the tachometer on the drive motor using a multimeter. If you don't measure between 105 and 130 ohms, replace the drive motor because the tachometer is defective. The tachometer is built into the drive motor and can't be replaced separately. If tachometer resistance is okay, replace the motor control board.
Drive motor under speed
Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board.
High current on the drive motor
Unplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board.
No tachometer signal for 3 seconds
Unplug the washer and check the resistance through the tachometer on the drive motor using a multimeter. If you don't measure between 105 and 130 ohms, replace the drive motor because the tachometer is defective. If the tachometer resistance is okay, remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board.
Motor control board is overheated
The motor control board is defective. Unplug the washer and replace the motor control board.
Communication failure between the electronic control board and the motor control board
Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the motor control board. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the motor control board. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board.
Incorrect voltage supply to the microprocessor on the electronic control board
Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and then restore power. If the code returns after restoring power, unplug the washer and replace the electronic control board.
Heater failure
Unplug the washer. Disconnect the heater and check resistance using a multimeter. The heater should measure approximately 14 ohms of resistance. Replace the heater if you measure infinite resistance. Check for a short in the heater to the metal cabinet. Replace the heater if it's electrically shorted to the metal cabinet. If the heater is okay, replace the electronic control board.
Heater temperature sensor error
Unplug the washer and measure the resistance of the heater temperature sensor using a multimeter. It should measure around 4,800 ohms. If it doesn't, replace the heater. If it does, check the wiring connections between the heater temperature sensor and the electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires. Replace the wire harness if damaged.
Failed water temperature sensor circuit
Unplug the washer and check the resistance through the water temperature sensor circuit using a multimeter. You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature. If resistance is off, you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly because that assembly houses the water temperature sensor and the sensor isn't available as a separate component. If you measure correct resistance through that circuit, replace the electronic control board because the control board isn't detecting the correct resistance.
Communication problem
Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the user interface board. Reconnect any loose wire connections or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the user interface board. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board.
Electronic control board or user interface board failure
Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the user interface board. Reconnect any loose wire connections or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the user interface board. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board.
Motor control communication problem
Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the electronic control board and the motor control board. Reconnect any loose wire connections or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the electronic control board. If the problem continues, replace the motor control board.
Incoming power frequency out of limits
Unplug the washer and have your local electrical power service provider check the power supply frequency. If it's normal and the code doesn't clear, replace the electronic control board.
Power supply voltage above 130 VAC
Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage with a multimeter. If the voltage is high, have an electrician repair the voltage supply problem. If the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board.
Power supply voltage lower than 100 VAC
Unplug the washer and check the outlet voltage with a multimeter. If the voltage is low, have an electrician repair the voltage supply problem. If the voltage is normal, replace the electronic control board.
Main voltage sensing failure
Have the power company check the frequency and, voltage of the incoming power supply. If correct, replace the electronic control board.,
Line safe relay sensing failure
Have the power company check the frequency and, voltage of the incoming power supply. If correct, replace the electronic control board.,
Clogged drain pump
Unplug the washer and clear the clog from the drain pump. If the drain pump won't pump water when it's running, replace it.
Too much suds
Reduce the amount of high-efficiency (HE) detergent that you use.
Control reset
Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and then restore power. If the code returns after restoring power, unplug the washer and replace the electronic control board.
Stuck button
Free the stuck button. If you can't free the stuck button, unplug the washer and replace the user interface board.
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